New Fixed Protection Replacement in the Trapps!

Over the last few weeks GCC board members Christian Fracchia and Dustin Portzline with the help of Andy Salo have been busy replacing fixed protection on climbs in the Trapps!

The old bolt and its new replacement bolt on Wonderland.

The quality and strength of aging bolts and pins have been suspect for some time. Arrow’s top bolt was easily broken with an 1/8 of a turn of a wrench! This heavily climbed route actually had the worst bolts of all those replaced. Presumably caused by galvanic corrosion in a mixed-metal bolt and hanger combination.

Arrow’s rotted old bolt

Dustin pulled out the Never Never Land pin by hand. J’Accuse’s bolts had mixed-metals (stainless hangers and non stainless bolts) with possible galvanic corrosion issues arising in the future.

Old piton on Never Never Land

New bolt on Never Never Land.

Old bolts from Turdland, Never Never Land and J’Accuse Bolts.

Stainless steel hangers and bolts have been supplied by the American Safe Climbing Association and replaced on the following climbs:

• The Blackout
• Turdland
• Never Never Land
• J’Accuse
• Wonderland
• Arrow
• Ozone
• Carbs and Caffeine

All existing holes and bolts were removed and filled with epoxy and natural stone to minimize our climber impact.

If you would like to help support this project or future ones you can always join the GCC through the Access Fund, donate to the Mohonk Preserve, and/or donate to the American Safe Climbing Association!

Thank you for your continued support and efforts!

The old Carbs and Caffeine bolt.

New bolt on Carbs and Caffeine

Replacing the bolt on The Blackout.

Christian Fracchia installing the new bolt on Arrow.

Replacing the bolt on Turdland