Head of a Peregrine Falcon.

2019 Peregrine Climbing Closures at the Gunks

5/1/2019 UPDATE: Note the nest has failed in the Trapps. The climbing and bouldering closure in the Trapps has been lifted, but closures still remain at Millbrook and Bonticou’s Sunbowl.

(Updates made 4/11/2019 to closure areas, see below.)

The Mohonk Preserve has announced temporary climbing closures at the Trapps, Millbrook and Bonticou for nesting Peregrine Falcons. The closure in the Trapps is the same area as in 2018, which includes popular climbs like Sente, Thin Slabs, Arrow, Andrew, Moonlight, CCK, High Exposure, Ant’s Line, Bonnie’s Roof and The Yellow Wall. Please plan accordingly and consider the many other quality routes in the Near Trapps, Lost City, or Bonticou (except the Sunbowl which is also closed for peregrines), as well as Peter’s Kill and Dickie Barre in Minnewaska State Park.

To learn more about why the cliffs have to be closed to climbing when the Peregrine Falcons are nesting, read our 2016 blog post Why Cliffs Are Closed For Peregrine Falcons.

For the latest news on the closures, check the Mohonk Preserve Peregrine Watch page.

We thank you for your patience and helping to protect the Peregrines.

Here’s the official announcement:

Due to nesting Peregrine Falcons, the following areas are temporarily closed to rock climbing. The closure is in effect as of March 16, 2019.

  • Trapps Cliff: All rock climbs between and including Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12)
  • Trapps Bouldering: Problems between and including Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) Venus in Scorpio (V11) (updated 4/11/2019)
  • Millbrook Cliff: The Millbrook Ridge Trail is open for Hiking Only. Cliff access is prohibited north of Westward Ha! (updated 4/11/2019)
  • Bonticou: The section known as The Sunbowl (the Crag area remains open)

To help protect the nesting Peregrine Falcons:

  • DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access these areas.
  • DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
  • DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
  • PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of these closures.

Peregrine Falcons are listed by the State of New York as an Endangered Species and we are legally obligated to protect their nesting areas at Mohonk Preserve. The Peregrine breeding season may possibly run through late summer.

The Preserve has worked collaboratively with the climbing community for decades to help protect the Peregrine Falcons and appreciates their support of our conservation mission as they continue to enjoy the over 1,000 unrestricted climbing routes available at Mohonk Preserve.

Peregrine Falcon in flight.

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