The GCC would like to give a huge Thank You! to the Mohonk Preserve, the Bolting Sub-Committee, the American Safe Climbing Association and the Gunks climbing community for their continued support and efforts to help protect the land we all love for future generations!
Over the past year and a half the Gunks Climber’s Coalition / Anchor Evaluation Committee has presented suggestions and plans to help manage climber ecosystem impact, fixed protection and fixed anchors on the Mohonk Preserve. It is our ultimate goal to improve and strengthen the communication between the climbing community and the Mohonk Preserve. After a very lengthy review and approval process with the Mohonk Preserve’s Land Stewardship Committee and the Bolting Sub-Committee, five Trapps climbs were removed of all tree anchors and installed with fixed rappel anchors. These rappel anchors were primarily chosen because of climber safety, high traffic causing slope erosion with dangerous rock filled gullies developing, and the potential loss of trees from soil compaction. Placement of these fixed rappel anchors are not for climber convenience but rather to regenerate the ecosystem, to help avoid rappelling on top of other climbers, to lessen the use of fixed anchors for top-roping, and to maintain the legacy of traditional climbing.
In an effort to reverse climber impact and erosion the tree anchors have been removed, Bolted Fixed Rappel Anchors have been installed and slope restoration areas have been roped off at the top of Jackie, Betty and Baby to move climber traffic to more durable rock surfaces.
The Trapps climbs No Picnic, Double Chin, Jackie, Betty and Baby all have Stainless Steel 1/2″ Bolted Rappel Anchors installed by the Mohonk Preserve and the volunteer efforts of Christian Fracchia, Dustin Portzline, Jason Hurwitz, and Jason Beaupre. All anchor supplies were graciously supplied by the American Safe Climbing Association, Rock and Snow and donations from GCC members. Thank you everyone for your stewardship and for helping to support the conservation of the cliffs and environment we love!
Please support and follow the ASCA at http://www.safeclimbing.org, their efforts are paramount for the future and safety of our sport.
Here are photos of the GCC Anchor Evaluation Committee and Mohonk Preserve ranger Frank Tkac replacing environmentally damaged tree anchors with new bolt anchors in the early summer of 2015.