To climbers, the Gunks refers to the cliffs of the Shawangunk Ridge. The cliffs are on a mixture of public and private lands. The majority of climbing takes place on two cliffs both located in the Mohonk Preserve. These are called the Trapps and Near Trapps. The next most popular destination is Peterskill which is managed by Minnewaska State Park. Each cliff falls under different rules, user fees, and regulations. The summary below should give a first time visitor the basic information you will need before arriving.
TRAPPS
Son of Easy O 5.8
The Trapps cliff is the major cliff of the Gunks. Located on Mohonk Preserve lands users must pay a fee. Visit http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/hours-and-fees . The Trapps as well as the other cliffs managed by the Mohonk Preserve are traditional climbing areas, which means that there are no sport climbs.
There are two parking areas, both of which are located off of route 44-55 in Gardiner, which is 6 miles outside of New Paltz. The first choice for most climbers is the West Trapps Lot. It is advisable to arrive early (pre-9am) because it fills up quickly on weekends. The other option is to park at the Mohonk Preserve’s visitor center which tends to fill up only on the busiest of weekends.
For further information consult the following resources:
The Trapps App: A smart-phone guidebook to the Trapps
Available for Android at the Google Play Store
Available for iPhone at the iTunes Store
The Climber’s Guide to the Shawangunk’s by Dick Williams
Available at Rock and Snow in New Paltz or EMS in Gardiner
The Gunks Guide by Todd Swain
Available at Rock and Snow in New Paltz or EMS in Gardiner
NEAR TRAPPS
near trapps
