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GCC News for 2003
- November 8, 2003: Trapps Boulder Chalk Cleanup, GCC Meeting
and Russ Clune Slide Show
"Hey, can't you guys see we want to boulder here," quipped a
sketch-pad laden Al Diamond, as he and 80s bouldering phenom
Jordan Mills surveyed the GCC's chalk clean up on the Lynn Hill traverse.
"We could have used those Indian pumps on the Mac Wall," Jordan
observed, watching volunteers Jessica and Tim hose down the
Black Boulder, "you get a lot more volume with them than with
those spray bottles."
The Trapps boulder clean up was the first of a full day of events
at the Mohonk Preserve, as the GCC closed out the 2003 climbing
season. Using four Indian pumps provided by the Preserve, and a
pack of ladders toted in by the crew, 20 GCC members and
volunteers - including Gunk luminaries Elaine Matthews and Rich
Goldstone - spread out from the Uberfall, scrubbing boulders
and problems along the Trapps carriage road. An early run down to
the Andrew Boulder and Boxcar insured that low-ballers like
Al and Jordan who braved the crisp, November day had plenty of
dry rock to play on. The clean up clocked in an hour early,
by noon, suggesting again the ease with which a regular schedule
of boulder crews can maintain this chronic eyesore.
Following an afternoon of climbing and hiking, folks reconvened
at the Preserve's Visitor Center for a general meeting with the
GCC steering committee. Lizz Bartlet reviewed some of
the structural chores the steering committee has been engaged
in making the GCC operational, before fielding questions from
participents on such topics as fixed anchors, fixed gear, and
addressing climber's access with Shawangunk land managers.
Sam Vona detailed his education subcommittee's plans for
gathering and distributing information on a primary area of
concern: climbing's impact on the ecosystems of the ridge.
And Access Fund president Dave Rosenstein reiterated the balance
climbers must find between the conservation priorities protecting
the Shawangunks with the GCC's goal of maintaining access.
As Russ Clune prepared slides for the day's final event, people
stepped out to wonder at the lunar eclipse, before settling in to
witness the co-author of test pieces like Vandals and Twilight
Zone regale the assembled on those infamous 80s. From the bus
teetering over the wall of the hairpin, to the bolting, tree-cutting
("Oh man, we gotta Hoffa this tree"), and bolt-chopping incident
on Pumping Pygmies, Russ was there vividly for it all. RP's
and lycra, globe-trotting rock stars swooping in, Clune and
Jeff Gruenberg's bracing mano-mano soloing the super-classics,
the rise of early sport and comp sensations Scott Franklin, Colin
Lantz, and, of course, Lynn Hill: Russ' show touched jauntily
on the themes and players from that watershed Gunks' era. All
proceeds from the slide show will be donated to the Preserve
to help purchase a new grip-hoist for Dick Williams' trail crews.
GCC Steering Committee members with Russ Clune (far right)
With the launch of our newsletter, Talus, the previous evening,
some thoughtful suggestions concerning the direction of the
GCC gleaned from the meeting, and another successful day of
events under our belts, the steering committee adjourned with
a host of projects and itineraries to consider for the
Gunks Climber's Coaltion's second year. Meanwhile, we'd like
to thank everyone who supported us this year: the members who
joined and the volunteers who sweated, guest speakers John Bragg
and Russ Clune, businesses Rock & Snow and Campmor, the
Access Fund, and the land managers of the Shawangunks - the
Mohonk Preserve, Minnewaska State Park, and the Open Space
Institute - without whom our precious ridge would have long
gone the way of Hoboken.
- October 11, 2003: Peter's Kill Chalk Cleanup
Armed with fire-fighting Indian packs provided by Minnewaska State Park,
and joined by members and volunteers from as far away as Massachusetts
and Pennsylvania, the GCC went to work scrubbing down chalk on the Peter's
Kill boulders. Test pieces like Khadejha and the Terror Dome provided
not-so problematic problems for our debut test of these beefy water-cannons.
The Warm Up Boulder, The Quarantine area, and The Lion's Den too were
dispatched in a leisurely half-day, which gave everyone ample time afterwards
to delight on the Peter's Kill rock beneath a stellar blue afternoon.
As with our scrubbing of the Mac Wall back on September's Adopt a Crag Day,
the Peter's Kill clean-up provided us with much to chew on and savor,
like just how quickly conglomerate cleans with the right tools, and how
easily a regular schedule of events like these will create our own
"happy" boulders. With the Petzl chalk clean-up being rained out,
we're looking forward to a Saturday in early November to try the
Preserve's Indian packs on the Trapps boulders.
The GCC would like to thank the members and volunteers who assisted
with the clean-up, and Jorge Gomes, head climbing ranger at
Minnewaska, who helped arrange the event.
For more pictures, go to our
GCC gallery
- Letter from the Open Space Institute (OSI)
On September 8, 2003, we received a nice thank you letter from
the Open Space Institute for our help cleaning up the "Shevchenko"
property on August 9. To see the letter,
click here.
- September 6, 2003: Adopt-A-Crag Day
Gunks Climbers' Coalition Sponsors Chalk Clean-Up at the Gunks
On Saturday, September 6, more than thirty rock climbers descended
on the Mohonk Preserve with spray bottles, scrub brushes, gallons
and gallons of water, a positive attitude and a singular goal:
to scrub clean an entire section of the cliff. Spearheading this
undertaking was the Gunks Climbers' Coalition (GCC), who chose
the September date to coincide with The Access Fund's national
"Adopt-A-Crag" day.
"Chalk tends to build up on popular climbs at the Gunks but
the Preserve unfortunately doesn't have the resources to clean
the rock," said Christopher Spatz, a Steering Committee
member of the GCC. "We see this as an opportunity to not
only work with the Preserve but to give back to the sport we
appreciate so much."
On a section of near-vertical and overhanging rock called
the Mac Wall, volunteers cleaned more than a dozen climbing
routes. Others organized a trash cleanup, netting more than
four bags of refuse gathered along Preserve trails and the 44/55.
"Some of us have climbed here for decades and it's important
we show that climbers can be stewards of the land," says
Lizz Bartlett, GCC Steering Committee member and Access
Fund Regional Coordinator.
To top off a great day, the GCC held a party to celebrate the good work
that was done - with lots of cold beer to drink and tall tales to tell,
everyone had an outstanding time.
Given the success of this clean-up effort, the GCC and
the Mohonk Preserve will be staging future events that
target different sections of the cliff.
For more pictures, go to our
GCC gallery
- August 15, 2003: GCC OSI Cleanup in Newspaper
The "Neighbors Page" of the "Blue Stone Press" local newspaper
featured a
photograph and brief
about our cleanup on the Shevchenko
property.
- August 9, 2003: GCC Cleanup Day
On a warm, humid and mostly rain-free Saturday, the GCC hosted
a cleanup day at the former Shevchenka property
recently purchased by the Open Space Institute.
This 2000 acre parcel will be transferred to Minnewaska
State Park, and is being considered as a potential west
entrance to Minnewaska. OSI provided the dumpster, and
we provided the volunteers. Eleven Gunkies
worked hard, had some laughs, and attended a general meeting
at the base of the cliffs on the property.
We hauled many tires, pipes, car-parts,
and shingles, as well as sundry lighter debris, some of
it quite amusing. Lizz took out her chainsaw and we piled
large logs in front of a trail abused by ATVs.
Many thanks to the volunteers who did an amazing job!
- June 6, 2003: Gunks Climbers' Coalition Hosts John Bragg Slide Show
On June 6, 2003 Gunks climbers gathered to see a legend, and they were not
disappointed. Despite a rainy Saturday, a capacity crowd filled
the Mohonk Preserve visitor center to hear John Bragg wax nostalgic
about his climbing exploits at the Gunks, where he was a fixture
in the early 1970s through the 80s.
Throw away your cams and Aliens. Leave the cushy Misty Mountain
harness at home. And don't even think about lacing up those
stealth rubber 5.10s. Now, with hexes and swami belt go climb
the Yellow Wall. John Bragg showed the crowd--at least half of
which was under 30 years old--how it was "back in the day," and
although every picture featured bad 70s haircuts, there were
plenty of committed climbers, such as Steve Wunch and John
Stannard, who along with Bragg climbed hard and established
some of the toughest routes of the decade.
Bragg, who is well known for his Patagonia expeditions, relished
the opportunity to give a slide show featuring the Gunks. And
what an exquisite slide show it was, showing the Gunks in all
its splendor. Folks marveled at one outstanding climbing shot
after another: the Yellow Wall, Kansas City, and of course
many routes at Skytop. It was indeed a different world then.
But Bragg also captured the darker days of the Gunks, a period
in the 1980s where increased crowds resulted in graffiti and
trash. If not for the work of a few dedicated locals at
that time, the crag would certainly be in worse shape today.
This illustrates why John's slide show was the perfect inaugural
event for the Gunks Climbers' Coalition. We too care deeply
about the rock, and thus have formed as an organization to
preserve its beauty and enjoy the spectacular climbing it affords.
The GCC was proud to host John Bragg for the evening. All
proceeds from the event go directly to supporting and expanding
climbing opportunities along the ridge. Stay tuned for
more from the GCC.
John Bragg with the GCC Steering Committee
- April 2003 - Our own Lizz Bartlett has become the Eastern NY
Regional Coordinator for the Access Fund.
She will also serve as the GCC's liason to the Access Fund.
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Gunks Climbers Coalition - PO Box 325 - Gardiner, NY 12525
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