On April 20, 2013, the Dickie Barre area of the Minnewaska State Park Preserve will be open to climbing. This is the first
expansion of a climbing area as put forth by the 2010 Master Plan. On behalf of the Gunks Climbers Coalition, I would like
to thank all of the people who volunteered their time with trail and road building, surveying, and other essential activities
that made this possible.
Your efforts have gone a long way to establishing a positive relationship with Minnewaska State Park. This is essential
as we continue our mission to open other areas of the Park.
Click here
for a letter from Park Manager, Jorge Gomes, to the Palisades Interstate Park Commission and the New York State
Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation in Albany acknowledging the work of the GCC on the Dickie Barre
carriage road. Please take some time this season to check
out this newly opened climbing area, and thank you again.
Sincerely,
Peter Cody
GCC Co-Chair
March 28, 2013
Trapps Route Closure for Peregrine Falcons
|
Announcement from the Mohonk Preserve
ATTENTION CLIMBERS!
Route Closure
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between, and including the routes
Bloody Bush (5.7) and Overhanging Layback (5.7)
is temporarily closed to rock climbing.
- Do not use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
- Do not use the section of the cliff base climber’s trail between these routes.
- Please refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Thank you for your cooperation.
March 2, 2013
Patagonia Grand Opening Party Pictures
|
On March 2nd, Patagonia invited us to their private party to celebrate the opening of their technical climbing
clothing store in the Meatpacking District of NYC (west side). During the party, a very valuable raffle was
held, and proceeds went to the GCC. Also with their no bag policy, every shopping bag will cost 20 cents, and
those proceeds will be donated to the GCC. The party also celebrated the release of their cutting edge 1000-fill
waterproof down jacket, the Encapsil. A team of Patagonia Ambassadors were fresh off the plane from South America
to talk about how the jacket performed on their climb on Cerro Torre in Patagonia.
There was great food, drink and music and the GCC is very grateful for their support and the great party!
The photos from the event are posted on
our GCC Facebook page.
July 12, 2012
Latest Trapps Route Closure for Peregrine Falcons Has Been Lifted
|
The Trapps Route Closure between Beginner’s Delight (5.3) and Pleh (5.11) has been lifted.
Thank you for your cooperation!
New announcement from the Mohonk Preserve as of July 1st!
Falcons have been aggressively defending an area that may be a secondary nesting sight.
ATTENTION CLIMBERS! Route Closure
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff
between, and including the routes Beginner’s Delight (5.3) and Pleh (5.11) is temporarily closed to rock climbing.
- Do not use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
- Do not use the section of the cliff base climber’s trail between these routes.
- Please refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Thank you for your cooperation!
March 16, 2012
Trapps Peregrine Falcons Cliff Closure
|
Just announced by the Mohonk Preserve:
ATTENTION CLIMBERS!
Route Closure: Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between, and including the routes Credibility Gap (5.6) and Bitchy Virgin (5.6) is temporarily closed to rock climbing.
- Do not use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
- Do not use the section of the cliff base climber’s trail between these routes.
- Please refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Thank you for your cooperation.
January 17, 2012
The GCC donates $7,500 to Mohonk Preserve
|
Press Release:
On December 30. 2011, the Gunks Climbers’ Coalition (GCC) donated $7,500 to the Mohonk Preserve in support of planning for and stewardship
of the Northern Preserve in Rosendale, which includes Giants Ledges and The Waterworks.
GCC has pledged a total of $50,000 to the Preserve over the next ten years to support the creation of a master plan of site design
and long-term access management of the Northern Preserve. In 2010, the organization made an initial $11,000 donation toward this pledge.
“We are grateful to the GCC and the entire climbing community who have responded so enthusiastically to our conservation efforts in the
Northern Preserve and throughout the Shawangunk Ridge,” said Mohonk Preserve Executive Director Glenn Hoagland. “Climbers have always
been some of our most ardent and generous members, donors and volunteers.”
The Mohonk Preserve is currently developing a plan for expanding opportunities for hikers, bicyclists, climbers and others in the Northern
Preserve, while also ensuring protection of the land. The GCC is working with the Preserve on future management plans for the area.
“Our donation is on behalf of the entire climbing community, whose members have, by their individual contributions, made our own
collective one possible.”
The GCC is now an official affiliate of the Access Fund. As such, your membership with us includes a full membership with the Access Fund.
For more information, visit www.gunksclimbers.org.
About the Mohonk Preserve
Located in five Ulster County towns, the Mohonk Preserve is the largest member - and visitor -supported nature preserve in New York State.
For more information, visit www.mohonkpreserve.org
or call (845) 255-0919.
Thu, December 8, 2011
GCC Board of Directors Election
|
The GCC Board of Directors has elected
the new officers of the Gunks Climbers' Coalition. Officers hold office for two years. If you'd like
to get more involved with the GCC and can volunteer some of your time, contact us at
.
Fri, September 9, 2011
Potential Temporary Closures for Controlled Burns
|
The Shawangunk Ridge Biodiversity Partnership may have opportunities to conduct one or more controlled burns at Mohonk Preserve next week.
The most likely area for burning would be the northern portion of the Trapps Cliffs area above Overcliff Road. Due to the shallow soils
and high exposure of this area, they expect rapid drying and it is possible they could try to burn as early as Tuesday.
The GCC will post any news of temporary closures during the week for these controlled burns.
Thu, September 1, 2011
Lake Minnewaska State Park Limited reopening 9/3
|
From the park's website: UPDATE: Minnewaska State Park Preserve will be open on a limited basis effective Saturday, September 3, 2011,
until further notice. The park sustained severe damage from Tropical Storm Irene. The park will only be open for hiking, picnicking and
swimming at Lake Minnewaska and climbing at the Peter's Kill area. Biking and equestrian use will not be permitted. The only access
available will be for hikers and climbers. All hikers must park in the Awosting Parking Lot and all climbers must park in the Peter's
Kill parking lot. Please adhere to all posted trail closings. For more information or updates, please call the Park Preserve Office at 845 255-0752.
Check the latest status on
their web site.
Wed, August 31, 2011
Route 299 from New Paltz to the Gunks reopened
|
Note that the bridge over the Wallkill River in the town of New Paltz has reopened. You can now continue
on Route 299 from New Paltz to the Gunks.
Save the date!
The Gunks Climbers' Coalition (GCC), in conjunction with the Access Fund, will be holding their
second annual fundraising party on September 17th, 2011 from 5 to 10pm. Like last year's
successful event, the party will be held at the Williams Lake Resort located at 424 Williams
Lake Road in Rosendale, NY. However, unlike last year's party, this will be a special membership party.
The party will highlight the GCC's new joint membership agreement with the Access Fund. New
members joining the Access Fund will have the option to select the GCC as their affiliate
organization. This affiliation will automatically provide joint membership in the Access
Fund as well as the GCC and will send a portion of the Access Fund membership dues to the GCC to
help fund local initiatives.
Admission to the party is $40 including Access Fund/GCC membership, or if you choose not to join,
$20 for party admission. The party includes a barbecue
dinner and drinks. There will be videos from Deadpoint magazine and Josh Lowell of BigUp
Productions, and a silent auction of excellent gear from our sponsors. The GCC Board of Directors
will give a brief presentation about the GCC's current projects, and the American Alpine Club
will provide status on the new campground planned on Rt. 299 in Gardiner.
We are requesting that everyone attending must RSVP using the Eventbrite service at the web
site http://gccparty.eventbrite.com/ by September 15th.
This will ensure that an adequate amount of food and drink will be available and excess won't be purchased.
Contact the GCC at
if you would like to volunteer at the event or have any questions.
View Larger Map
Peregrine Falcon Trapps Cliff Closure lifted
June 11, 2011
|
The GCC just got word from the Mohonk Preserve: "Peregrine falcon young successfully fledged from Trapps nesting site,
due in part to all the climbers who observed the now lifted closure".
Thank you for your cooperation!
The Gunks Climbers' Coalition received the following announcement about the Multi-Use Area Campground on Route 44-55.
ATTENTION SHAWANGUNK MULTIPLE USE AREA CAMPERS
Due to continued impact on public health, safety and environmental resources at the Shawangunk Multiple Use Area,
designated campsites are being reduced to 9 as shown on this
map (click here).
All designated camp sites will be on the south side of the road and large enough to accommodate the legal limit of
up to 9 campers per site. Groups are encouraged to share campsites in order to allow the maximum number of 81 campers.
Parking will only be allowed in the main parking lot on the south side of the road, the same side of the road as
camping. The parking lot on the north side of the road will be blocked off to prevent the public (campers) from parking
there and crossing the road to camp. Parking along the shoulder of route 299 will be prohibited to limit traffic/pedestrian
issues.
Any questions should be directed to Jeffrey Wiegert at (845) 256-3084
ATTENTION CLIMBERS!
Route Closure:
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between the routes Beginner’s Delight (5.3) and Triangle (5.9) is
temporarily closed to rock climbing.
- Do not use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
- Do not use the section of the cliff base climber’s trail between these routes.
- Please refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
At a November 2010 meeting between climbers and the Minnewaska State Park Prerserve,
the Preserve announced its intention to expand climbing within the park. Together with
the Access Fund, this group of climbers and park officials is now working to develop a climbing
management plan. A main point of discussion was the enormous budget cuts with which the Park
system is dealing. While this will not affect whether or not new climbing areas are opened,
it will affect the rate at which they are opened. The Park expressed its interest in the
volunteer efforts of the Gunks Climber Coalition and their organization of trail maintenance
initiatives. As the process moves forward, continued volunteer efforts will be an important factor.
We are now starting a letter-writing campaign, strongly supported by the Access Fund, on behalf
of the Park. We are asking Governor Cuomo to consider the importance of the Park to our
community when he writes the budget for the upcoming fiscal year. This is a key opportunity for
the climbing community to work with the Park, but it is also important that Governor Cuomo
appreciates the importance of Minnewaska State Park Preserve to all community members regardless
of whether or not they climb.
Please take the time to write a letter and show your support for this beautiful place. Below
is a list of suggested bullet points to include, as well as addresses to which letters should be
sent. Although actual letters are statistically more effective than emails, anything you can
do is appreciated.
Talking points:
- Minnewaska is a true four-season park with the most extensive variety of activities of any state park in New York.
- Minnewaska is used for hiking, climbing, bouldering, snowshoeing, cross country skiing, road bicycling, mountain biking, walking/strolling, picnicking, family swimming, long distance swimming, horseback riding, hunting, scuba diving, boating, bird watching (including unparalleled raptor sightings), museum visits, nature and recreation programs, painting and photography.
- Minnewaska has wheelchair accessible paths.
- Many people buy an Empire Passport solely for use of Minnewaska.
- The much-used Fodor's Travel Guide calls Minnewaska a "crown jewel of a park."
- Minnewaska's scenery, vistas and flora have been described as unmatched in New York State.
- Minnewaska has been cited as "one of the 75 great places in the western hemisphere."
- Visitors to Minnewaska have been an important part of the local economy.
- Visitors to Minnewaska pay fees and sales taxes that go directly to New York State. Many of these visitors are from out of state which efficiently increases state revenues with minimal increase in expenditures.
- Tourism at Minnewaska benefits business over a wide swath of the Hudson Valley.
- In this tough economy, a family can enjoy a fun-filled day even on a limited budget.
- Minnewaska is home to unique ecological communities: Pitch Pine Rocky summits: Ice Caves; Chestnut-Oak forests.
- Minnewaska offers sharp-eyed visitors a chance to see uncommon fauna: Peregrine Falcons; Timber Rattlesnakes: Bobcats.
- Minnewaska is especially important to me because ________________.
- I regularly ________ in Minnewaska and it is an important part of my life.
- My family loves Minnewaska because we are able to ____________ together.
Please send your letters to:
The Honorable Andrew M. Cuomo
Governor of New York State
NYS State Capitol Building
Albany, NY 12224
http://www.governor.ny.gov/contact/GovernorContactForm.php
Senator John Bonacic
508 Legislative Office Bldg.
Albany, NY 12247
email: bonacic@nysenate.gov
Assemblyman Kevin A. Cahill
email: CahillK@assembly.state.ny.us
If sending email be sure to CC:
Senate Majority Leader Dean Skelos
skelos@nysenate.gov
and
Speaker Sheldon Silver
Speaker@assembly.state.ny.us
Many thanks for your support of this important initiative! Don't hesitate to contact Pete Cody of the Gunks Climbers' Coalition,
should you have any questions.
All best wishes,
Peter Cody
Gunks Climbers' Coalition
codymail@verizon.net
On December 12, 2010, the Gunks Climbers’ Coalition took a major step toward fulfilling its
commitment to support the management and maintenance of the ‘Waterworks’ bouldering
area, which lies at the northern end of the Mohonk Preserve.
It is a heavily wooded and glaciated 63 acre parcel, currently owned by the Open Space
Institute and soon to be purchased by the Mohonk Preserve. The boulder problems are
accessible to climbers of varying degrees of skill and the enveloping forest creates a serenity
unique to this location.
Until the purchase by the Preserve has been completed, along with evaluative research to
assess the protection needed for endangered species of plants and animals, as well as
historical sites, the access will be afforded by online appointments through a website set up
by the Preserve at www.eventbrite.com, and with property boundary limits pointed out by
climber volunteers on location. The area is bounded by private land and respect for these
boundaries is essential if we are to enjoy the privilege of climbing here, as everywhere,
when private residences are so close.
Our Communications Director on the Board, France Menk, presented a check in the amount
of $10,000 to Glenn Hoagland, the Director of the Mohonk Preserve. These funds have come
from the generosity of our entire climbing community, as well as many non-climbers who
feel a strong attachment to the preservation of open space for recreation and relaxation. We
are extremely grateful to you all. This contribution and our ability to make this commitment
to the project is a direct result of your support.
The GCC’s total pledge of $50,000 over 10 years serves to support the creation of a master
plan of site design and long term access management, based on the results of the studies
mentioned above. Within the terms of our donation, the Mohonk Preserve has pledged to
support bouldering and climbing within the parameters of this plan.
Our fundraising efforts to support our pledge are ongoing. You may donate through Paypal
at our donation page in our web site www.gunksclimbers.org, or you may mail a check to
our post office box. We are a registered 501(c)3 non-profit organization and all donations
are tax deductible.
We are all excited at this major step forward in our commitment to increase climbing
opportunities along the Shawangunk Ridge.
This important news has also been published by the Access Fund on their
website here.
Left to right: Joe Alfano, Director of Development & Membership, Mohonk Preserve;
Glenn Hoagland, Executive Director, Mohonk Preserve; France Menk,
Communications Director, Gunks Climbers' Coalition;
Eric Fye,
Managing Ranger, Facilities and Operations, Mohonk Preserve.
Rosendale Waterworks Climbing Access To Be Announced by the Mohonk Preserve!
On Monday, September 27th, the Mohonk Preserve will be announcing the beginning of public climbing and
bouldering visits to the Rosendale Waterworks parcel, which has been recently acquired by the Open Space
Conservancy, the acquisition affiliate of the Open Space Institute. The Waterworks parcel is being managed
by the Mohonk Preserve.
Visits to the site are available to Mohonk Preserve climbing members and Mohonk Preserve Climbing day
pass holders. Visits are by reservation only, and are led by Mohonk Preserve volunteers. To sign up for
announcements regarding visits click the link below, or visit Eventbrite.com and search Waterworks
Climbing Tour in the location Rosendale.
http://www.eventbrite.com/rss/user_list_events/5666284272
The events go online and are viewable only 48 hours before the day of the event. Volunteers are lined up
to give tours on upcoming Saturdays and Sundays until the snow falls.
The Gunks Climbers' Coalition was the catalyst that made this climbing area possible.
We continue fund raising efforts to help defray the costs of managing this new area.
Please contribute to our Rosendale Waterworks Project Fund by visiting
our GCC website
donations page and sending in your online donation via PayPal. We thank all who have
contributed time and/or money to this effort and look forward to your continuing support.
Route Closures Due to Peregrine Falcons Have Been Lifted
June 14, 2010
|
Two peregrine young were fledged from the Trapps Cliff and another 3 from Millbrook Cliff.
The peregrine closure is therefore lifted. Thank you for your cooperation!
GCC's Giant Rosendale Waterworks Fundraising Party
May 22, 2010
Williams Lake, Rosendale, NY
|
What a great time! Beautiful venue, fun people, delicious food, high quality beer and wine, high energy tunes and videos,
incredible prizes! And a thank you to the attendees who did a great job in cleaning up after themselves. The Sunday morning
GCC clean-up crew found barely any trash on the grounds.
If you couldn't make it to the party, you can still help out. We have a donation button set up to direct contributions to the
Rosendale Waterworks fund. CLICK HERE to make a donation.
You can pay via credit card using paypal from there, or mail us a personal check.
The goal is high, we still need more funds to help pay for operational costs of the Waterworks Area.
Thanks to everyone who came out and partied with us, for all those who have helped and contributed to the cause,
and for all those who donated to the party.
Click here for list of major donors and corporate sponsors.
These businesses and companies are supporting the Gunks climbing community, we urge you to reciprocate and support
these businesses and thank them for their help.
Trapps Route Closures
March 12, 2010
|
The Mohonk Preserve has informed us of the following route closure at the Trapps cliff:
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between, and including the routes
Credibility Gap (5.6) and Bitchy Virgin (5.6)
is temporarily closed to rock climbing.
- Do not use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
- Do not use the section of the cliff base climber’s trail between these routes.
- Please refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
We appreciate your cooperation.
Millbrook cliff land acquisition
March 11, 2010
|
The Open Space Institute (OSI) announced today the acquisition and permanent
protection of 67 acres of dramatic Millbrook cliff face on the southeastern edge of the Shawangunk Ridge.
OSI’s acquisition now paves the way for opening the site up for public access and enjoyment, as it will
be added to the neighboring Mohonk Preserve for management as a public recreation area.
Click here
for the press release from OSI.
Access Fund Action Alert
Keep Minnewaska State Park Open!
March 10, 2010
|
New York State Parks are at Risk! For the first time ever, budget woes may close down New York State parks,
including the climbing found at Minnewaska State Park. We need your help to support funding for New York's
parks by contacting your state legislators and Governor Paterson.
Visit the
Access
Fund advocacy center and take action now!
Adopt-A-Crag Day
December 5, 2009
|
Please join us for Adopt-A-Crag day on Saturday, December 5, 2009 at 10:00am at the Mohonk Mountain
House. Click here for details.
GCC Board of Directors Elected
November 19, 2009
|
The GCC is pleased to announce the 2009 Board of Directors.
Elections were held on November 19, 2009, and Directors will serve a 2 year term.
Please support the Fund Raising Soiree!
on November 7, 2009
|
We really need your attendance and donations for the GCC Benefit
Soiree (on 11/7) to help acquire and manage the Rosendale Waterworks Bouldering Area. Just imagine a large
world-class bouldering area open for climbing with your help!
If you received a Paperless Post email invitation, please send in your RSVP. Pay for your tickets from the
"Donations" Page. If you can't attend, please send
in your tax deductible donation to help with this project. For those who will be attending, when you purchase a ticket
any amount above $30 will be tax deductible.
Less than a week left until the big event! Dinner, wine, door prizes, and Vulgarian poetry slam/spoken word!
And best of all, a fun evening out with the climbing community and knowing that you helped to make the Rosendale
Waterworks Bouldering Area a reality!
Please spread the word, tell your climbing friends, and come join us for an evening of fun with a purpose!
|
2009 GCC Board of Directors Nominees
|
The GCC is pleased to announce the 2009 nominees for Board of Directors.
Access Fund provides letter writing generator for Minnewaska Draft Master Plan
Deadline November 13, 2009
|
Minnewaska Master Plan - Access Fund Letter Generator
We need more climbing areas at Minnewaska State Park Preserve open for climbing.
Now that the master plan is open and under review, we have a short window to make a change.
Please send your comments now. The comment period ends November 13, 2009.
The Access Fund has set up a great letter writing generator for the Minnewaska issue.
Please click on this URL and click on "Minnewaska":
http://www.accessfund.org/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.5208267/k.8C84/Action_Center/siteapps/advocacy/ActionCenter.aspx#
Please use your own words if possible.
For more ideas for talking points, see http://gunksclimbers.org/talkpoints.shtml
.We need to generate hundreds of letters in support of climbing.
If from NY send copy to your local assemblyperson and state senator.
To find local assemblyperson and state senator go here: http://nymap.elections.state.ny.us/nysboe/
Once located you can click on their name to take you to your elected officials home page when they all have links to contact them.
Send them a copy of your remarks with how anti-recreation, anti tourism the Minnewaska Master Plan is.
Please pass this information on to as many climbers as you know.
If a local business owner please push local chamber of commerce to send letters as well.
Link to the Minnewaska Draft Master Plan: http://www.nysparks.state.ny.us/inside-our-agency/public-documents.aspx
Letter writing information for Minnewaska Draft Master Plan
Deadline November 13, 2009
|
We need the climbing community to send letters to New York State to convince them to expand
climbing opportunities in Minnewaska. Please see our
talking points page for ideas on what to write.
The deadline for public comments is November 13, 2009. This is your chance to have your voice
heard - they are listening and we need to let them know how many climbers are out there, how
much we'd like more areas open to climbing, and how climbers can benefit the park, the community,
the economy and be responsible environmental stewards.
Send your letters to:
Fred Williams, Deputy Director
Palisades Region
NYS Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation
Bear Mountain, NY 10911
Phone: 845-786-2701
Fax: 845-786-2776
Thomas B. Lyons, Director of Resource Management
NYC Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation
Empire State Plaza
Agency Building 1
Albany, NY 12238
Phone: 518-474-0409
Fax: 518-474-7013
Or send emails to:
Minnewaska.plan@oprhp.state.ny.us
Letter writing and talking points for Minnewaska Draft Master Plan
October 2009
|
Please help comment on the Minnewaska Draft Master Plan in person or by writing letters.
We need a large climber presence at the October 22nd public
hearing at 7:00 pm in the Lecture Center,
Room 100 at SUNY New Paltz.
Also, please write letters to the New York State Office of Parks Recreation and Historic Development
to let them know that you want more areas open to climbing in Minnewaska. For a sample letter that
you can use as a template, as well as for talking points that can be used at the hearing, please
click here (MS Word doc).
Click here for more detailed talking points.
The public comment period ends November 13, 2009.
Please spread the word - tell all your friends who climb or use Minnewaska State Park.
GCC's Ajax Green interviewed on radio to discuss Minnewaska Master Plan
Fri, October 16, 2009
|
GCC co-chairman, Ajax Greene, was interviewed on Red Hook station WKZE 98.1
(http://www.wkze.com)
on the morning of Friday, October 16 to bring attention to the Minnewaska Draft Master Plan
and the public hearing on October 22. To listen to his interview,
click here
(mp3 format, 12:23 minutes).
Minnewaska State Park released its draft Master Plan. It includes an
extremely limited increase in climbing in the park to a handful of
routes above the Peter's Kill at Dickie Barre. The ban within the park
on climbing on Hamilton Point, Gertrude's Nose, Murrary Hill,
Castle Point, Millbrook, Beacon Hill, and Lake Minnewaska cliffs
continues. Climbing ban now also extends to the newly acquired lands
including Awosting Reserve (Gertrudes Nose), the Shevchenko parcel
crags, and Sam's Point. The ban on ice climbing within the park's
numerous falls and flows continues as well. The climbing ban at
Minnewaska represents the largest ban on climbing on public lands in the
country.
Details of the plan can be found at:
http://www.nysparks.state.ny.us/inside-our-agency/public-documents.aspx
A public hearing for the Minnewaska State Park Preserve master plan will
be held on Thursday, October 22, 2009 at 7:00 pm in the Lecture Center,
Room 100 at SUNY New Paltz, New Paltz, NY. Please try to attend.
NOTE: this is a Draft, not a Fait accompli and it is very important to
get as many climbers to the meeting as possible to loudly complain, that
it is not a good plan, and does not represent a large constituency.
This is only the beginning of the fight to open Minnewaska to climbing!
Details on letter writing campaign to State Parks and State Legislature
to follow.
Please forward this to as many climbers as you can think of.
The draft of the Minnewaska Master Plan and Environmental Impact Statement was released on 9/30/2009.
From initial inspection, it describes expansion of the Peter's Kill Climbing area to include
climbing access to the Dickie Barre cliff area with constructing additional parking spaces a possibility,
but no additional access to climbing in other areas of the park, and no ice climbing.
Key sections to read are on pages 105, 155-116, 120.
On page 132, they acknowledge the contributions from the GCC:
The Gunks Climbers Coalition, an affiliate of
the national Access Fund, has been very active in improving and
maintaining the climbing area as part of the national Adopt-a-Crag effort.
Coalition volunteers have assisted with research in the climbing area and
development of the new climbing area, the Dickie Barre.
They also include a map of the planned Shawangunk Gateway Campground.
Take a look HERE.
The GCC's position is that climbers should never trespass on private land where trespassing
is forbidden and to respect all closures on public and private lands. Questions about closures
should preferably be directed at the GCC or the Access Fund. Rock and Snow in New Paltz is another
reliable source. If there is any doubt, then a property should be considered off limits. If
possible and appropriate, information about closures will be communicated in bulletins to the
climbing public. In cases where property boundaries are in dispute, it is best to avoid climbing
in the vicinity altogether or to get very intimately informed as where said boundaries are. Even
the GCC may not always have the most accurate information. In these cases it is caveat emptor.
Even in areas where climbing is legal, on the Shawangunk ridge there are rare fauna and flora and
climbers must be aware of their impact and absolutely minimize it. The Shawangunks are very
heavily used and climbers must be aware that low impact is much more crucial here than in most
other climbing areas if we are to continue to enjoy this resource relatively freely. Please be
aware of and abide by all rules and regulations wherever you are climbing.
It is our policy not to post any information about certain climbing areas that are closed to
climbing due to wishes of landowners. If exploring climbing unknown to you always check with
the landowner first.
The GCC
Rosendale Waterworks Bouldering Area Update
July 23, 2009
|
In its June 10th town meeting, the Rosendale town board approved the sale of the
Waterworks parcel to the Open Space Institute (OSI). A 30-day period for public
petitioning of the sale closed on July 17. The closing is expected to occur within
the next several months.
Following an expected transfer by OSI to the Mohonk Preserve, a planning process
for the Waterworks will be developed by the Preserve considering community,
environmental, and recreational interests. A projected opening date for the
Waterworks pending completion of all of these developments remains to be announced.
The bouldering moratorium also remains in effect.
Trapps cliff closure lifted
June 30, 2009
|
The rock fall and nesting peregrine falcon route closure that affected the section of
Trapps cliff between, and including the routes Asphodel (5.5) and Bitchy Virgin (5.6)
has been lifted. Two young falcons were successfully fledged from the aerie in this area.
The compliance of the climbing community was instrumental in this success story. There may
still be some loose rock present in this zone, so extra caution should be used when climbing
or using the cliff-base climber’s trail in this area.
A trail has been blazed by the GCC that accesses the far end of the
Near Trapps.
This trail has already been used by climbers for years and cuts left off
the first junction of the blue trail on the top of the Nears where the
first red trail cuts off right. From this junction the blazes are marked
with orange survey tape tied on the trees as well as small orange flags
on metal sticks which are planted on the ground or on dead trees. This
was particularly necessary since there is a section of the trail a
little ways down that cuts left and needed a bit of extra marking to
clarify where it goes. This section has extra density of the small flags
on the ground. After cutting across the woods for a little bit the trail
again becomes very clear and well trodden. This access to the end of the
Near Trapps is a better solution to the present closure of the small
section of the Nears by Eenie Meenie than a rappel solution so we have
not implemented any rappel station.
This overall approach takes about the same time to approach the far end
of the cliff than it does to hike all along the bottom of the Nears.
Trapps Route Closures (Expanded)
April 26, 2009
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The Mohonk Preserve has informed us of the following route closure at the Trapps cliff:
Due to rock fall and nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between,
AND including the routes Asphodel (5.5) and Bitchy Virgin (5.6) is temporarily closed to rock climbing.
- Do not use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
- Do not use the section of the cliff base climber’s trail between these routes.
- Please refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
We appreciate your cooperation.
Note: This has been edited - as of April 26, the closure was expanded from Le Teton to
Bitchy Virgin, and includes the climbs mentioned. This expansion is necessary to further
reduce the stresses that human activities are incurring on the nesting falcons.
The Near Trapps at the Gunks offer nearly a mile of classic and popular climbs just south of
Route 44-55. In 1993, the Access Fund worked with the Mohonk Preserve, Open Space Institute, and
Friends of Shawangunks to protect access to the Near Trapps, but a portion remains on private land.
Earlier this month, a portion of the Near Trapps was closed to climbing. This includes land below the
cliff to above cliff-line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet.
Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and obtain access to climbs further south by
hiking in from the Millbrook Ridge Trail and following a descent trail marked by orange flagging tape.
The Gunks Climbers' Coalition
is addressing the issue and looking into potential solutions.
To all of our dear Friends, and Supporters.
Before the start of the current 2009 climbing season it is past time to summarize our last
years' activities. Better late than never, so the saying goes!
The Mohonk Preserve experienced a theft of rescue equipment valued at 10,000 dollars last year.
The thieves stole the titanium litter that we donated in 2007, along with the bulk of the items
in the main rescue cache.
In order to help make up most of the sum not covered by insurance, our rescue fund
will contribute a good portion of the remainder so that new rescue equipment can be purchased.
Thanks to all who contributed to the Rescue Fund, we got some very generous donations.
We try to acknowledge at least some of the donations and some times take some time actually
depositing them, since we are a very small all-volunteer organization. If you did not
get an acknowledgement and need one for tax purposes, please let us know and we will send
one to you. We greatly appreciate all donations.
Part of our contribution will be covered by a non-solicited grant which we have written and
submitted to the Rivendell Foundation, once that is received.
We plan on also making another significant contribution in 2009 to our valued Gardiner volunteer
fire department, who have always cooperated with the climbing community where climber rescue
is concerned. We also wish to raise awareness among all climbing users that the rock climbing takes
place in Gardiner rather than New Paltz, and that the limited resources of the Gardiner Fire and
Rescue are significantly strained by the (unfortunately) increasing need for climber rescue.
We've also been continuing work the Rosendale bouldering area project "Water Works" as we
have been doing since 2005/2006. Negotiations with the town of Rosendale, the Mohonk Preserve,
and Open Space Institute have been positive. We are happy to report excellent progress and that
we will be required to raise a considerable sum in order to finalize the land acquisition.
After the next stage in the process we will announce the amount that we need and we
can already report that we have a substantial sum amounting to one quarter of this amount in our coffers.
Of course it was a matter of great honor for us to be the recipient of the
Mohonk Preserve's Thom Scheuer Memorial Stewardship Award this last fall at the New Paltz Climbing
Film Festival. It was a validation of our efforts so far, and will spur us on to
increase our efforts and efficient operation in the future.
It was also our pleasure to host donuts and coffee on the weekend of the Fall Film Festival at
the Trapps Bridge entrance. We got to meet many of our supporters, friends and new faces and had
a lot of fun. We also raised a good amount of money toward our various projects.
Our events this year were very well received and successful. This included slide shows by
Michael Kodas, our usual cleanup at Peter's Kill, a garbage pickup from the Mountain Deli all
the way to the hairpin turn on 44/55, and sponsoring a chalk clean up. A fun get together was
had after the chalk clean up. We also sponsored free pizza at the Vulgarian Roundtable at
Rock and Snow during reunion weekend.
News about Minnewaska is that the present Park Management is very receptive to opening new climbing areas.
The new Management Plan is being drafted. We will work together with Minnewaska and also consult
the Access Fund as this is progresses. We are optimistic that at least some climbing areas can be
opened, but that at the same time we must keep in mind the present budget crisis that New York State
is facing and that this could impact things as this goes along.
We expect the coming year to also be a busy one in light of all the above. Our events planning
is well under way and we have some really great ones in the works that we are excited about.
More on this soon!
Another piece of news is that our super-webmama, Jannette Pazer, has put together our very own
Facebook page. Please visit us by searching "Gunks Climbers Coalition" on Facebook and become
a fan to get all of our blow-by-blow, minute by minute updates. We hope that this can become a
much better venue of communication between us and you than anything we have had in the past.
Of course we will still maintain our web page, as well as continuing news flashes, and the
occasional Newsletter. The Newsletter has now involved as a forum for poetry, photography and
art by the talented climbing community. Please send your submissions to us via our contact info
on our web site as we will be coming out with another newsletter this year, thanks to our
very talented Ms. France Menk.
To all of you, best wishes for a good climbing season and see you at the cliff in the coming year.
Thanks for your continued support and good karma.
- The GCC board of directors and your Access Fund regional coordinator,
Chris Moratz - Gardiner, NY
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