Composition of images showing the old bolt and the newly replaced bolt on the climb Wonderland at the Gunks, along with the Access Fund, Gunks Climbers' Coalition and ASCA logos.

New Fixed Protection Replacement in the Trapps!

Over the last few weeks GCC board members Christian Fracchia and Dustin Portzline with the help of Andy Salo have been busy replacing fixed protection on climbs in the Trapps!

Composition of images showing the old bolt and the newly replaced bolt on the climb Wonderland at the Gunks, along with the Access Fund, Gunks Climbers' Coalition and ASCA logos.

The old bolt and its new replacement bolt on Wonderland.

The quality and strength of aging bolts and pins have been suspect for some time. Arrow’s top bolt was easily broken with an 1/8 of a turn of a wrench! This heavily climbed route actually had the worst bolts of all those replaced. Presumably caused by galvanic corrosion in a mixed-metal bolt and hanger combination.

The rotted old bolt on the climb "Arrow" at the Gunks.

Arrow’s rotted old bolt

Dustin pulled out the Never Never Land pin by hand. J’Accuse’s bolts had mixed-metals (stainless hangers and non stainless bolts) with possible galvanic corrosion issues arising in the future.

Rusted old piton from Gunks climb Never Never Land.

Old piton on Never Never Land

New protection bolt on Gunks climb Never Never Land.

New bolt on Never Never Land.

Old bolts from Turdland, Never Never Land and J'Accuse Bolts.

Old bolts from Turdland, Never Never Land and J’Accuse Bolts.

Stainless steel hangers and bolts have been supplied by the American Safe Climbing Association and replaced on the following climbs:

  • The Blackout
  • Turdland
  • Never Never Land
  • J’Accuse
  • Wonderland
  • Arrow
  • Ozone
  • Carbs and Caffeine

All existing holes and bolts were removed and filled with epoxy and natural stone to minimize our climber impact.

If you would like to help support this project or future ones you can always join the GCC through the Access Fund, donate to the Mohonk Preserve, and/or donate to the American Safe Climbing Association!

Thank you for your continued support and efforts!

Old bolt on the climb Carbs and Caffeine at the Gunks.

The old Carbs and Caffeine bolt.

Newly replaced bolt on the climb Carbs and Caffeine at the Gunks.

New bolt on Carbs and Caffeine

Christian Fracchia drilling a replacement bolt for the climb The Blackout at the Gunks.

Replacing the bolt on The Blackout.

Christian Fracchia of the Gunks Climbers' Coalition, installing a new bolt on the climb, Arrow.

Christian Fracchia installing the new bolt on Arrow.

Christian Fracchia replacing the old bolt on the climb Turdland at the Gunks.

Replacing the bolt on Turdland

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